Installing an American BB is pretty much the same as installing a Mid or a Spanish, except the fit is usually not nearly as tight, and you’re pressing aluminum cups into a usually steel frame rather than steel bearings into a steel frame so they’re going to slide easier anyway.īefore you go any further, check your tube spacer- it should be touching both bearings. It’s better to have a tube spacer that’s 1mm too long than it is to have one that’s too short- you might as well not have one there at all in that case, and you need a tube spacer so that the bearings don’t pinch when the cranks are tightened down. When the cup is almost tight, it’s not unusual for the bearings to move outwards slightly- don’t freak out here. Again, wrap the threads with teflon tape if you like, and snug it up. The non-drive side cup is right-hand threaded, so it tightens normally. Insert the proper tube spacer for the width of your BB shell.
The drive side cup has a line around it and is left-hand (reverse) threaded. If you really want to do it right, because you hate hearing your BB creaking, then you should get some teflon tape from the hardware store and wrap the threads of the cups. Ideally, you should clean the threads of the frame, and then give them a light coating of grease. Installing a Euro (English/ISO) BB is pretty simple.You will need a 36mm headset wrench. Do not hit the bearings in the center race- hit the outside edges, starting at the top and working your way around the edges, with the intent of pushing the bearing in as evenly as possible. Do not hit the bearings as hard as you can. If you don’t have access to a bearing press and the vice or C-clamp isn’t working for you, you can get a rubber or wooden mallet and tap the bearings in place. Flip the frame over, insert the gold tube spacer, and then the other bearing.Using a bearing press: lay the frame flat so the BB is under the press, and place the bearing atop the shell, bring the press down, keeping the frame as square to the table as possible.You might need a friend to help support the frame. In all scenarios, you should first spread a bit of grease on the BB shell where the bearings will sit. You can do it that way, but the bearings can get damaged, your frame can get damaged, and you really should avoid using a hammer on your bike as much as possible, it’s just not the right tool for the job in most cases. The last method is to get a 2×4 and a hammer and bash the bearings into place. You can even use your cranks, if you already have one crank arm installed on the BB spindle.
Thanks for all your help to date, let me know what you think of the above combo and If it works well done to you clever ones who said right from the beginning.If you don’t have a bench vice, you can get C-clamps from a hardware store for less than $20 and use them with the wood squares. I recon I could get away with the following spindleĪnd any of these Euro Bottom Bracket conversion kitsĭo you centralise the spindle with the spacers to get the chainline required? Itseems to be a floating spindle? Needing to get your help and thanks in advance I have looked on the redline site but they seem to only provide ten Redline Euro BB with 6 spline that I can fit my Old school flight crankĬan you help me as I just gotta get this baby built. You have been recommended by the os-bmx site as being able to provide a My 80's JMC has a euro BB about 34mm shell diameter and this spindle This was designed for the US BB shell with Spindle BB which is 6 spline 19mm diameter over the splines and 22.5mm I have some 80's old school Redline flight cranks with the dimple Hi guys/gals, I wonder if you can help me solve a riddle. So looking at Dans Comp I sent them this pleading help question OK thanks for the e-bay link, I saw that one too but can't seem to get the BB seperate. I hope I have not jinxed any of the components on the build. Imagine that always questioning "Whats the cra*k". I will struggle with my Wife as she is Irish.
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